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[MRS]

Retirei do Impact Bumpers este interessante artigo ,que por sua vez foi tirado de outro site.Ao seu autor desconhecido o nosso obrigado.
As opiniões expressas são do desconhecido.Mas são uma boa referência de quem certamente tem muita experiência.
MRS

Found this very interesting and informative article from a track focused website. May help some people (whilst teaching others to suck eggs that already know ) but is a great guide to brake suggestions and upgrades. Some of the references are generic and maybe we could edit disc upgrade references if needs be? Feel free to add more info/useful tips.

How to Stop Brake Fade On Trackdays

Brakefade is in essence the brakes ceasing to work. This often happens on track after periods or extended periods of heavy use.
There are two types of brake fade, that are essentially broken down into two specific areas:

Pedal Fade
Pedal fade occurs as a result of the brake fluid boiling in the calipers. The normal resulting symptoms are that on application of the brakes, the brake pedal to feel spongy and pedal travel will increase. This is often called the brake pedal going through the floor. It is a particularly unpleasant experience, as normally when you apply the brakes you are expecting them to pull you up, often when “the pedal goes to the floor” you are hurtling towards something that you would rather not make contact with – IE Someone else, armco or other immovable object that will need more than T-Cut and a polish out…

Braided brake lines will also help resist the spongey pedal feel. Stainless brake line information is following in the coming weeks.

If you experience pedal fade, it almost always will require the brake fluid in the system to be changed, as it will have boiled. Once brake fluid has boiled once, its ability to resit boiling again has been greatly reduced. Brake fluid testing should be regularly done as a matter of course, and on a track car or racecar, it should be replaced regularly, or when tests show it has degraded. (Always use the highest-grade fluid possible). The standard brake fluid now-a-days is dot4.1 however, dot5.1 is now quite common and is suitable for most trackday and race applications.

Pad Fade
Pad fade is the result of friction being lost between pad and disc surface due to the friction material exceeding its maximum operating temperature. The pedal feel remains constant (ie. the pedal remains hard) but regardless of how hard you push the brakes, the vehicle is not slowed down.

If pad fade regularly occurs or if it occurs towards the end of a session or race, an upgrade to a material with a higher operating temperature should be considered. If the highest specification pad material is being used, one should be looking at larger rotors (discs) or a higher quality disc with curved vanes can also aid this cooling process. Alternatively, improving cooling to the brakes through the use of brake ducting or similar.

The most significant area of problems or issues with upgraded brake discs, pads and high performance braking systems is almost always the control of the brake temperatures. The Brake disc and brake pad temperatures can be analysed and with this information, one can measure the temperature range the brakes are operating in. With this information different pad materials can be considered, and cooling systems can be developed and tested to analyse whether any improvement can be made to the operating temperature and reliability of the brakes.

a number of upgrades are on offer to almost any vehicle, but you should expect to pay a minimum of £60 for a sensible Trackday pads such as a Ferodo DS2500 brake pad.

Mintex offer a number of trackday compounds such as the Mintex M1144.

Pagid are also an excellent if not a more expensive solution to a trackday and endurance race pad, however, they are very much worth the money in my opinion.

Stainless Steel Braided brake lines
suffer with brake fade on track and the braided brake lines that we offer can eliminate this issue. It is obviously important that you also use good quality brake fluid and that you change it regularly.

Brake Pads
The choice of brake pads isn’t particularly wide. I would recommend that if you are planning on changing the pads that you also get these items in stock – as you will probably end up needing one or all of them…

Caliper Service Kit –

Brake Pads –

Bleed Nipples – (Also well worth keeping in stock if you are out on track a lot)

The original pad is obviously intended for road use. If you are finding that your brakes are starting to judder then it is normally pad material deposited on the disc surface, and the best solution is to go out and thrash the car for 5-10 minutes, using the brakes heavily, and then letting the system cool down whilst you are driving. This should eliminate the vibrations. However, it is also quite common to warp the discs so be warned – it could be expensive.

My best recommendation for pads is the Ferodo DS2500 – , it is much more agressive when being used hard.

So in essence thats it. The complete knowledge about the brakes and everything that is available.

This guide is intended to offer you the information that you will require to choose a braking package or disc & pad (it is also very relevant to anyone owning a hothatch or lightweight sports car) from the many different options in a language that everyone should understand without going into too much technical detail.
What is the most important part of going quickly? To be able to stop… every time, at the any point, lap in, lap out. Be this for a corner, a competitor or a catastrophe, you need to be able to rely on your brakes as they will save your life if you look after them.

What Life should I expect from components?
Standard Discs and pads – Between 500 and 30,000 miles dependent on usage & maintenance. On a road car you would expect to achieve 25,000 miles. The 500 miles example would be a car that is used only on the track.
Standard Calipers – Between 10,000 and 50,000 miles dependent on usage & maintenance as well as what pad you are using. On a road car you would expect to achieve 50,000 miles from new before changing the calipers.

Typically on a DS3000 or PF97 race pad you would expect to get one set of pads : three pairs of discs. However you might consider a more expensive pad such as the Pagid RS19-29 or RS4-2 due to its much longer life and over the duration of a trackday or race season you would find that the extra initial cost is multiplied several times over, in savings on replacement discs and pads. This is due to decreased wear as the ceramic compounds are much less abrasive on the disc whilst still offering incredible stopping performance.

A pad like the Ferodo DS2500 would normally last between 15,000 and 20,000 miles on the road – obviously the greater stopping power normally results in more wear. The Pagid compounds are not the exception to the rule, but demonstrate this clearly.

The information that you will wish to know to start with is about your standard OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) Components.


OEM Front Discs , OEM Front Pads and Standard Brake Hoses/Stainless Steel Brake Hoses.

What it will cope with: This package as standard is pushed to its limits with fast A&B road driving.

Improvements that can be made: Should you wish to retain the standard discs & pads then the most sensible upgrade that you can make is to change the standard brake hoses to Stainless steel brake lines. The lines offer a firmer pedal feel, and offer a more consistent feel through extended hard use. We would normally suggest that any fluid is replaced with DOT 5.1 fluid at this point.

Std Brake lines Vs Stainless Steel Brake Lines
Stainless Steel brake lines offer a firmer pedal feel, and offer a more consistent pedal feel through extended heavy use. We would normally suggest that any fluid is replaced with DOT 5.1 fluid at this point. They would prevent the pedal from falling – this is when under heavy use the pedal with go to the floor without offering any stopping resistance. Basically the last thing you want is brake fade – going into a corner or ready for a big stop and nothing happening – trust me its not pleasant.

We offer both Goodrich brake hoses, and our own hoses made to the same standard. In terms of our advice, there are zinc plated brake lines, and full stainless brakelines. We only sell full stainless brakelines.

I use my car for fast road only
We would recommend that you utilise the following components:
OEM Brake Pads
OEM Front Discs
GreenStuff Brake Pads
Bendix Rear Pads
Brembo Front Discs
Moquip Stainless Steel Braided Brake Lines
Goodrich Braided Brake Lines
Motorquip Dot 5.1 Brake Fluid

Why do we recommend the above products?
The OEM braking package is designed to offer the standard car good stopping ability. The important failure point of the braking package is the brake lines – once changed, they will offer you effective braking in almost all road circumstances.

The GreenStuff pads offer a slight upgrade to the standard pads, the initial bite is slightly more aggressive, and they will sustain heavy braking in most road circumstances. Once on track or used in exceedingly heavy road applications, the GreenStuff pads are no longer robust enough to cope with the high temperatures associated with this type of braking.


I use my car for fast road and some track use
We would recommend that you utilise the following components:
OEM Front Discs
Ferodo DS2500 Brake Pads
Pagid Blue (RS4-2) Brake Pads
Brembo HC Front Discs
Brembo MAX Front Discs
Stainless Steel Braided Brake Lines
Goodrich Braided Brake Lines
Motorquip Dot 5.1 Brake Fluid

Why do we recommend the above products?
Once the car is taken on track you start to experience different braking problems, these can be simply; brake fade, massively increased wear, a
nd inconsistent brake performance amongst other braking component failures.

Quite simply we would recommend the Ferodo DS2500 brake package (includes Brembo HC discs, brake lines and Ferodo DS2500 pads) for a road / occasional track package. The Ferodo pad is designed to be a race pad, and we would always remind customers that it is a sold as such – a race pad. If you research on the Internet clubs and forums you will find many people using these as a fast road pad, despite it being designed as a race pad. You use this pad entirely at your own risk on the road.

I use my car mainly for track use
We would recommend that you utilise the following components:
Brake Ducts
OEM Front Discs
Ferodo DS2500 Brake Pads
Ferodo DS3000 Brake Pads (See Reference 2)
Pagid Blue (RS4-2) Brake Pads (See Reference 1)
Pagid Yellow (RS19-29) Brake Pads (See Reference 1)
Performance Friction 97 Brake Pads (See Reference 2)
Brembo HC Front Discs (See Reference 1&2)
Brembo MAX Front Discs (See Reference 1&2)
Stainless Steel Braided Brake Lines
Goodrich Braided Brake Lines
Motorquip Dot 5.1 Brake Fluid

(Reference 1) – We would recommend that these pads are used with Brembo Max Discs
(Reference 2) – We would recommend that these pads are only used with Brembo HC discs rather than the Brembo Max discs.

Why do we recommend the above products?
The components that we have recommended above are intended for Track use, and are more suited to race / track use than road use. If you choose to use these pads on the road (In particular the Performance Friction 97 (PF’97) and Ferodo DS3000) you may find that you experience squeaking, dust, and the possibility of the brakes not reaching operating temperatures when using them in heavy traffic or on cold mornings. On our own track/race cars we run either the PF’97 or the RS4-2 with either Plain or grooved Brembo discs. We would also recommend that you use the Ferodo DS2500 or the Pagid Blue pad on the rear to maximise the braking effect that the rear has – without adjustable bias the rear brakes are not used heavily, but this gives you the opportunity to maximise the effect that they do have.

I race my car
Brake Ducts
OEM Front Discs
Ferodo DS2500 Brake Pads
Ferodo DS3000 Brake Pads (See Reference 2)
Pagid Blue (RS4-2) Brake Pads (See Reference 1)
Pagid Yellow (RS19-29) Brake Pads (See Reference 1)
Performance Friction 97 Brake Pads (See Reference 2)
Brembo HC Front Discs (See Reference 1&2)
Brembo MAX Front Discs (See Reference 1&2)
Moquip Stainless Steel Braided Brake Lines
Goodrich Braided Brake Lines
Motorquip Dot 5.1 Brake Fluid
AP Racing 4-pot package

(Reference 1) – We would recommend that these pads are used with Brembo Max Discs
(Reference 2) – We would recommend that these pads are only used with Brembo HC discs rather than the Brembo Max discs.

For Sprinting/Hill Climb
DS2500

We would also recommend that you use the Ferodo DS2500 or the Pagid Blue pad on the rear to maximise the braking effect that the rear has – without adjustable bias the rear brakes are not used heavily, but this gives you the opportunity to maximise the effect that they do have.

For Circuit Racing
We would also recommend that you use the Ferodo DS2500 or the Pagid Blue pad on the rear to maximise the braking effect that the rear has – without adjustable bias the rear brakes are not used heavily, but this gives you the opportunity to maximise the effect that they do have.

For Endurance Racing
We would also recommend that you use the Ferodo DS2500 or the Pagid Blue pad on the rear to maximise the braking effect that the rear has – without adjustable bias the rear brakes are not used heavily, but this gives you the opportunity to maximise the effect that they do have.

Other Pads and Thoughts.
There are a lot of other pads out there from a variety of different manufacturers – Carbon Lorraine, Mintex, Red Stuff, Yellow Stuff… I have tried most of them and to be honest – the ones I have included in this guide will be either better value, or better performing over the course of a season. I take into account a lot of this without mentioning it and well, I have used, fitted, sold and then advised a lot of people. The feedback that I get is normally that I was right – occasionally I get someone who says that Ferodo DS2500’s squeal… its normally because they were fitted badly or that the person using them hasn’t bedded them in properly.